AUG 4
Alfama + miradouros wander unconfirmed
Morning before the heat. Portas do Sol and Graça viewpoints do more than any single ticketed sight.
Belém — Jerónimos + pastéis de Belém unconfirmed
Afternoon; open Tuesdays. The monastery church is free, the cloister is ticketed. The pastéis queue moves fast.
Anytime
Tram 28 SKIP unconfirmed
Heavily pickpocketed and mobbed in August, and the route's charm is walkable. Ride only if one shows up empty.
Eat & drink
Pastéis de nataManteigaria for the fresh-out-of-the-oven versionBifanaPork sandwich, best from a counter, not a menuGinjinhaCherry liqueur shot near RossioGrilled sardinesAugust is peak season